How Many Points Is Tequila On Weight Watchers

How Many Points Is Tequila On Weight Watchers

Verywell / Debbie Burkhoff

As one of the most popular diet plans over the last 50 years, Weight Watchers—or as it's currently named, WW—has certainly helped some people achieve weight loss success. On this plan, foods are assigned different SmartPoints values, and you're given a daily allowance of SmartPoints to eat. You'll need to track your food every day to ensure you stay within your target range to support your weight loss goals.

Weight Watchers has evolved many times since its inception, and the current plan does offer advantages compared to those of the past. Point values of foods are based on more than just calories, and the company has made a targeted effort to shift their focus from pounds shed to overall wellness. However, some people may still get caught up in focusing on numbers and restriction, rather than embracing healthy behaviors.

What Experts Say

"The WW diet assigns points to foods and exercise and requires a daily tally/balance of points. Many experts agree that this can lead to seeing exercise as a way to compensate for food and that tallying points, just like calories, could create a focus on numbers rather than health." – Willow Jarosh, MS, RD

Background

History of the Company

Weight Watchers started in the early 1960's. Founder Jean Nidetch invited a group of friends to her New York City home to discuss the best methods for losing weight. That small group meeting evolved into a core part of past and current Weight Watchers programs.

One of her early group participants, Al Lippert, encouraged Nidetch to incorporate Weight Watchers in 1963. Lippert helped Nidetch to do so, and the business expanded rapidly. They became quite wealthy when the company went public in 1968.

Weight Watchers was later sold to the H.J Heinz company – yes, the ketchup manufacturer – in 1978 for $71 million. Heinz later sold the business to a European investment firm in 1999, where it was put up again for public offering in 2001.

In 2018, the company shifted it's focus from weight to wellness, re-branding as WW International, Inc, with the tagline "Wellness that Works."

Evolution of the Diet Plan

While Weight Watchers is known for its point system today, the original 1960s program was a fairly simple list of restricted, limited, and unlimited foods. Most of the diet's principles were those Nidetch had picked up in a program at an obesity clinic at the NYC Department of Health.

The rules of the original program were far stricter than the current program. For example, if you were following Weight Watchers in the 1960s you'd need to...

• Eat fish at least five times per week
• Only eat eggs a few times a week, and only at breakfast
• Eat 3-5 servings of permitted fruit each day, but avoid "forbidden fruits" (like bananas, watermelon, and cherries)
• Keep some foods off-limits, like bacon, avocado, peanut butter, and yogurt

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, variations on this exchange style meal plan were adopted. It wasn't until 1997 that points were introduced, and that has evolved many times since. Here's a list of the different incarnations of points-based programs:

• 1997 – 1-2-3 Success Program, the first points system which assigned values to foods based primarily on their caloric value
• 2000 – Winning Points, a more individualized points system that did not have any food exclusions and included adjustments for physical activity
• 2004 – Turnaround Program, which gave participants a choice of either the Core Program (a non-points based plan with a list of compliant vs. non-compliant foods) or The Flex Plan (a points plan that allowed eating anything as long as it was within the daily points allowance)
• 2008 – Momentum Plan, a crossover between the Core and Flex plans that was point-based but emphasized a list of filling foods
• 2010 – PointsPlus Plan, an overhaul of all the previous plans. This attempted to address the fact that although an apple and a handful of potato chips may have the same calories, they are not nutritionally equal. The new points system took into account factors like fat, protein, carbohydrates, and fiber.
• 2015 – SmartPoints Plan, an update to PointsPlus that also emphasized exercise with FitPoints
• 2017 – WW Freestyle, a plan that expands SmartPoints zero point foods (which don't need to be tracked) to include things like lean proteins. This is the plan currently used today.

How It Works

The current WW Freestyle plan is based on their SmartPoints system. Every food has an assigned number of points, and you'll receive a daily budget of SmartPoints to use throughout the day.

There is also a weekly cushion of extra SmartPoints which can be used to eat a little extra each day or can be allocated towards a special event that week that's point-heavy (like a friend's BBQ or a wedding).

There are no off-limit foods on WW, but the plan does encourage participants to eat nutritious options by steering you towards zero point foods. There are more than 200 of these foods, meaning you can enjoy them without tracking or measuring. These include many fruits, vegetables, and lean proteins.

Weight Watchers offers three different tiers of membership to help you assess and track your SmartPoints:

• Digital Plan – Includes use of the WW app to track food and activity, access to the community, and 24/7 online chat support
• Workshop Plan – Includes everything in the digital plan, plus weekly group workshops with guidance from wellness coaches
• Coaching Plan – Includes everything in the other two plans, plus access to one-on-one coaching support with unlimited phone calls

Pros and Cons

Weight Watchers is very appealing for many people looking to eat better since all foods can fit in the diet. It offers flexibility to enjoy meals at a special event or while eating out (provided it fits in your points allowance) and promotes many nutritious options in the zero points category. It's also been shown in research to support weight loss and tied to a reduction in diabetes risk among those with pre-diabetes.

However, there are also some downsides to the program. The focus on counting points can be cumbersome and feel restrictive for some people. It can also create an unhealthy mindset around food, encouraging people to skip meals so they can "save up" points for an unhealthy meal later. And though it's not expensive on a weekly basis, the cost can add up depending on how long you feel you need to stay on the program to reach your goals.

Common Myths and Questions

Even though Weight Watchers has been around many years, the continued evolution of the program has led to confusion about some parts of the diet.

Myth: Weight Watchers is a great way to lose weight quickly.

Fact: The goal of the program is slower, sustainable weight loss. It recommends losing no more than two pounds per week (after the first three weeks).

Myth: Once you hit your weight loss goal, you no longer need to follow the diet.

Fact: Many people fall into the cycle of losing weight on the program, then "going off" the program, and gaining it back. Unfortunately, this is very common with any diet plan.

This doesn't mean you have to pay for Weight Watchers (or any other diet program) for life. But if you have a certain weight that you are striving to maintain, you'll need to stick with the core tenants of healthy eating and caloric balance for life. On the flip side, you can choose to let go of the focus on weight and simply enjoy a healthy relationship with nutritious foods.

Myth: You have to go to group meetings to be part of Weight Watchers.

Fact: Weight Watchers offers several tiers of membership, and one is a digital-only option. With this plan, you participate in the program on your own from the comfort of your home.

Myth: At Weight Watchers meetings, you have to weigh in publicly.

Fact: You do not. The meetings are not designed as a method of public humiliation but rather for accountability. Your weigh-ins are done in private with only the group facilitator, and then you'll be able to discuss tips for sticking with your goals in the larger group setting.

Myth: You have to eat pre-packaged frozen meals.

Fact: While there are frozen meals that are branded with SmartPoints values, you do not have to eat these. You can eat any food from the grocery store, restaurant, farmers market, etc. You only have to worry about staying within your points range.

Myth: Weight Watchers is only for women.

Fact: Though Weight Watchers has traditionally attracted female participants, both men and women are welcome to use the program.

How It Compares

Though there are some slight differences, Weight Watchers is very similar to the USDA recommendations for a healthy balanced diet. For example, the program emphasizes fruits and vegetables as zero-point foods—in line with how the USDA recommendations encourage you to make half your plate fruits and vegetables. Or, consider that foods which are less nutritious (for example, those with lots of added sugars and unhealthy fats) tend to be very high in SmartPoints. This discourages users from eating them regularly, similar to how USDA recommendations advise against frequent consumption.

One slight difference though—while the USDA gives guidance based on calories or servings, Weight Watchers uses its proprietary points system.

Weight Watchers also has some similarities to other popular diets but varies in its effectiveness and sustainability. Here's a quick overview of how it compares:

• Jenny Craig – Some research has suggested Jenny Craig may lead to more weight loss than Weight Watchers. However, Jenny Craig relies on pre-packaged meals which may be unsustainable for long term compliance.
• Nutrisystem – Like Jenny Craig, Nutrisystem is another packaged meal company. While it may be convenient, it lacks the lifestyle and meal preparation skills that are encouraged within the Weight Watchers program.
• Low-Calorie Diet – Both Weight Watchers and a low-calorie diet require tracking food and can lead to weight loss. However, strict low-calorie diets tend to be far more restrictive than Weight Watchers.
• Optavia Diet – The Optavia Diet ranks as the number two best diet for fast weight loss (tied with Atkins, keto, and Weight Watchers) due to lower caloric intake.

A Word From Verywell

If you're trying to lose weight, Weight Watchers can offer the structured support you may need. By tracking your food daily and weighing in weekly, you're encouraged to self-monitor and become aware of your choices. These skills can help you recognize problem areas and make healthier choices, leading to weight loss.

The plan is not for everyone though. For some people, constant tracking can lead to an unhealthy obsession with numbers. For others, the freedom to eat anything can almost feel paralyzing in their weight loss journey.

No matter what course of action you choose, remember that the best diet is the one you enjoy and that you can stick to for life.

How Many Points Is Tequila On Weight Watchers

Source: https://www.verywellfit.com/weight-watchers-overview-4691074

Bathroom Cupboards Sri Lanka

Bathroom Cupboards Sri Lanka

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Bathroom Window Decals

Bathroom Window Decals

Tips for Finding the Right Window Treatments

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The Finishing Touch to a Room

Window treatments are a decorative and functional part of a room. They add splashes of color or tie together all the pieces of furniture and accessories in the space to create a cohesive look. At the same time, they provide privacy for you and your family and help you control the amount of light that enters your home.

Changing the window treatments in a room is an easy way to update the look of the room without completely redecorating it. Trade blinds for drapes to add softness to the room, or swap heavy curtains for shades to lighten the space. Top a shade with a printed valance or swag to give the window dimension. Frame windows with curtains in a bold color to add contrast to the room.

There are many options for window design, but shopping for window treatments doesn't have to be a daunting task. You just need a basic understanding of the available options and have a plan for the room's design.

Learn the Lingo

When you're shopping for window treatments, it helps to know the terms used to classify and describe them. This is also a practical way to familiarize yourself with the available options for your windows so you can narrow your choices. Start with the basics and learn the difference between blinds, shades, shutters and valances.

CC0/mploscar/Pixabay

Although some people use the terms interchangeably, they refer to specific types of window treatments. Blinds and shutters are typically made from sturdy materials like wood or metal and have slats that open and close. Shades and valances are pieces of fabric. Shades roll up and down over the entire window, but valances are just decorative pieces at the top.

Other words that come in handy are installation terms. Inside mount means the window treatment hangs inside the window casing. Outside mount refers to a window treatment attached to the wall surrounding the window. Hardware may refer to the brackets and supports that hold the window treatment in place or decorative pieces like finials at the end of curtain rods.

Get to Know Your Windows

Before you start shopping for window treatments, take a good look at the spot you want to dress. Note the number of windows, their basic shape and how closely they're grouped together. Inspect the window casing. Locate the window hardware.

Then it's time to measure the windows' length, width and depth. Grab a steel tape measure and paper to record notes. Work from left to right and top to bottom. You should get three measurements for each dimension (left, center and right for the width and top, middle and bottom for the length and depth).

This information will help you narrow your search. Unless you're buying custom-made window treatments, you have to find pieces that actually fit your window. You also want to find window treatments that enhance the window. For example, if the window casings look a bit worn and you don't have time to replace them, you may want to opt for blinds or shades mounted on the outside of the window or pair a shade with curtains to disguise the casing.

Pick a Style

The final consideration when shopping for window treatments is the style of the room. What you put over the windows may complement or contrast with the furniture and colors. Traditional rooms feel warm and inviting. In these rooms you see wood accents, plush furniture and decorative items like baskets, plants and wall hangings that catch your eye. Solid color drapes and wood shutters work well in these rooms because they don't detract from the rest of the decor.

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Modern rooms have clean lines and feature a minimalist approach to decorating. Simple shades and blinds carry the streamlined look throughout the room. Solid color curtains may provide an interesting contrast to the rest of the room and add a touch of softness. On the other end of the decorating spectrum, cottage style has a casual, cozy feel. Shutters add architectural detail that contrasts beautifully with casual furnishings. Sheer curtains over the windows enhance the light and airy ambience of the room, especially if you live in an area with plenty of outdoor breezes.

Bathroom Window Decals

Source: https://www.smarter.com/article/tips-finding-right-window-treatments?utm_content=params%3Ao%3D740011%26ad%3DdirN%26qo%3DserpIndex

What Kind Of Paint To Use On Bathroom Walls

What Kind Of Paint To Use On Bathroom Walls

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Home > You'll Love These Best Paints For Bathroom Walls, Cabinets, And Other Areas

You'll Love These Best Paints For Bathroom Walls, Cabinets, And Other Areas

You'll Love These Best Paints For Bathroom Walls, Cabinets, And Other Areas

We Love These Paints Because Our Clients In San Diego County Can Enjoy The Look Of Their Bathrooms Better For Longer

We think it's great that you're trying to become an informed consumer! Bathrooms need certain paints or they'll crack, peel, or fade too quickly. Since this room has high heat and humidity, the paint is usually the first casualty.

In this post, you'll discover the best paint for bathroom walls, bathroom ceilings, bathroom cabinets, bathroom countertops, bathtubs, and showers.

It's Unappealing

"Hon, I think our bathroom is peeling!" Michelle calls out.

David walks into the bathroom. "Show me." Michelle points out where the damage is. David sighs. "Jeeze, what kind of paint did they even use for it to peel this quickly?"

Michelle frowns. "I don't know, but obviously it isn't the best choice. It doesn't look too bad so we can probably look up how to touch up wall paint and do it ourselves." David sucks his teeth. "We can, but it'll just be a band-aid. The rest will start peeling eventually, so we'll have to repaint the whole thing sooner rather than later."

Michelle groans. "How about you look up the best paint for bathrooms. I'm going to contact our contractor to let him know he needs to come and fix this."

David nods as he gets his phone out and starts looking. Here is what he finds:

The 3 Best Bathroom Paints

The best paint for bathroom walls and ceilings is a combination of latex, mildew-resistant, and a semi-gloss finish. For bathroom cabinets, it's a glossy, 100% acrylic enamel formula. For bathroom countertops, tubs, and showers, it's a flat sheen epoxy paint.

The Best Paint For Bathroom Walls And Ceilings

The best paint for bathroom walls and ceilings is latex, mildew-resistant, and has a semi-gloss or satin sheen.

Latex paints are easy to work with and don't peel easily in high heat and humidity (aka bathrooms). Mildew-resistant, well the meaning's all there. This doesn't mean mildew can't form, it's just harder for it too. The semi-gloss and satin sheens make cleaning easier and they also don't peel easily.

Other paints can crack and peel more easily, stain and damage more quickly, and be harder to clean.

The Best Paint For Bathroom Cabinets

A glossy, 100% acrylic enamel is the best paint for bathroom cabinets.

It breathes more easily, meaning that as temperatures go up and down the paint will adjust instead of cracking or peeling. It also won't fade as easily as some other paints might.

The Best Paint For Bathroom Countertops, Tubs, And Showers

The best paint for bathroom countertops and bathing areas is epoxy with a flat sheen.

Epoxy is more durable against everyday wear and tear than other types of paints. It holds up better against heat and moisture too. Flatter sheens are better because they're less slippery.

You May Also Like To Know

"Great, now we know what paint to make sure our painter uses," says David dryly. Michelle nods, muting her phone. "I'm talking to him about it right now, I'll let you know what's happening." David nods, turning back to the blog post to see what else he can find out.

• The cost to paint a bathroom
• How to paint a bathroom

What Kind Of Paint To Use On Bathroom Walls

Source: https://irwinpainting.net/3-best-types-of-paint-for-bathrooms-in-vista-ca/

8x11 Bathroom Layout

8x11 Bathroom Layout

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Master Bathroom Floor Plans

By Meg Escott

I've put together some master bathroom floor plans to inspire your own bathroom layout.  Obviously it's not likely that your layout will end up exactly like any of these but they will get you thinking about the possibilities.

If you've got a small space take a look at the small bathroom floor plans I've drawn up.  Small can still be beautiful!

This page forms part of the bathroom layout series.

You can find out about all the symbols used on this page on the floor plan symbols page and there's also bathroom dimensions information.

Master Bathroom floor plan - 5 star

Here's some master bathroom floor plans that will give your en suite the 5 star hotel feeling.  These layouts are bigger than your average bathroom, using walls to split the bathroom into sections and including large showers and luxury baths.

In this bathroom layout, the bath has a luxurious surround and feels very protected – it's almost like a room in itself.  The area at the end of the bathroom forms the 'wet zone' with a seat to put clothes on (or for someone to have a chat with you in the bath) and plenty of space to dry off and not drag any water towards the vanity or the toilet area.  The separate room for the WC adds another layer of luxurious privacy.

Here's another luxurious bathroom layout where the wet zone has its own door.

I saw this bathroom layout in a magazine.  I love the fact that the shower and toilet are their own separate rooms.  It had a free-standing bath as shown.  I think I'd be tempted to make more of a bath alcove a bit like the first bathroom on this page.  A bit of space could be saved by making the vanity / sink areas slightly smaller.

Here's another variation where the shower and toilet have their own rooms, with twin vanities and a luxurious bath.  The alcove could have windows in it I guess.

How many washbasins in your master bathroom?

Some of the master bathroom floor plans above have two washbasins in a row.  I find that the main thing I like about having two washbasins is the sense of space.  When we've had two sinks my husband and I often found that we used the same one most of the time.  This got me thinking that a master bathroom would still be great with one washbasin (maybe a big one) while maintaining the same countertop and vanity space required for two sinks.  A bit less money and more storage.

Another arrangement we've seen above is having two washbasins but in different places so that they're split apart.  What happens if you share an electric toothbrush base or toothpaste and other stuff?  Just a thought.

En Suite Bathroom Floor Plan - 4 star

Here's another bathroom floor plan that I came across in a hotel.  This one doesn't have great wet and dry zoning – and no seat.  But it is slightly smaller than the five star version so it saves a bit on square footage.

This next arrangement is a bit more unusual because of the way the shower wall provides the wall for the washbasins.  The wet zone is in the ideal location - at the back of the bathroom between the bath and the shower.  This arrangement opens out directly onto the bedroom.  It wouldn't work so well with a door.

Standard Size Master Bathroom Floor Plans

Here's a few variations of standard sized master bathroom layouts.

9ft x 7ft

14ft x 6ft

9ft x 5ft

The layout below makes the toilet and bath more private.  Something you should know about this set up between the bath and the toilet...  The shower really needs to be at the opposite end of the bath to where to toilet is so that the toilet doesn't obstruct you from getting in and out of the shower - but this means that when you're taking a bath you've got a great view of the rim of the toilet seat.  A shower curtain that you can pull across the outside of the bath is a great solution to this.

10ft x 6ft

This layout has an arrangement where you step through the shower to get to the tub which creates a good 'wet zone'.  You could install a shower screen or a shower curtain between the bath and the shower.  If the door needed to be further down the end of the bathroom I'd switch the position of the toilet and the washbasin to avoid the view of the bathroom being of the toilet.  The door could also be placed at the end of this bathroom.

14ft x 6ft

The next bathroom layout is one that you might use if the master bathroom space was opposite a closet, opening up the vanity area to the closet but the toilet and bath have their own rooms.  A shower room could be added if you like.

Giant Master Bathroom Layouts

Here's two arrangements to consider if you've got lots of space.

His and Hers Bathrooms

Sometimes, if you have the budget and the space, you might want to consider having separate bathrooms or making some elements of the bathroom his and hers (or hers and hers, or his and his).  In this option there's separate toilets and sinks with a shared bath and shared shower.  Or you could have separate showers and a shared toilet - whatever combination you like.  If you're considering some his and hers bathroom layout just take a moment to consider if it might be more sensible to have two completely separate bathrooms.

More bathroom design for you...

More room design for you...

8x11 Bathroom Layout

Source: https://www.houseplanshelper.com/master-bathroom-floor-plans.html

Bathroom Linen Closet Dimensions

Bathroom Linen Closet Dimensions

Do you just cringe when you see that tiny linen closet in your bathroom and those wire shelves that all of your little knick knacks fall through? If you answered HECK YES! You're probably like me and you ripped out the door frame and everything before you really knew what or how to transform a closet into open shelving.

How To Transform a Linen Closet into Open Shelving

I'll be the first to tell you this is not a one day project, it took me a few weeks to complete on my own. We were able to double the space that was here before by removing the door, door frame and ripping out part of the wall above.

Shopping List, Supplies, and Costs for this project are all at the bottom of this post.

Before

Step 1: Remove door frame, molding (casing) + wire shelves

Use a box cutter to cut along the caulk line before using a pry bar. Door casing are installed in 3 pieces: the molding, door case, and molding on the other side. Below the red lines indicate where you will need to use a box cutter to loosen the caulk.

Once all of the caulk has been loosened you'll need to use your pry bar, hammer, and flat head screw driver to shimmy the molding away from the wall. Remove the molding on both sides first then the door casing. The door casing will most likely have shims and installed with either nails or  brad nails depending on the year your home was built.

Be sure to remove all of the extra nails in the wood frame after you have removed the door casing entirely.

Step 3: Expand the Space

Use a large speed square to mark the expansion of the door frame. You will need to remove the top 2×4 and drywall. To remove the 2×4 we cut it in half with a sawzaw and hammer. To remove the drywall use a drywall saw along the lines you marked with your speed square (prepare to get a good arm workout y'all!)

We added more 2×4's to frame out the larger door way we created. In order to frame out the area with new drywall you have to frame out the larger area with more 2×4's.

Step 4: Build the Base

Building the base was the most crucial part of this whole built-in. We made a 2×6 base with a few scrap underlayment plywood pieces as shims under the 2×6's to level out the base. Use a brad nailer to secure shims.

TIP: You do not need to use shims if your flooring is level with the main floor. We laid new tile on the main floor of the bathroom and the built-in base was built on the subfloor with no tile. So there was 1/2 inch difference.

The 2×6 between the doorway must be flush with the drywall and edge of tile. You will be attaching a baseboard to the front 2×6 so be as precise and flush as possible.  I used a brad nailer to hold it in place while I attached the rest of the 2×6's to each other.

Attach all the 2×6's to the surrounding wall and the corners where they meet. The center 2×4 is attached on the long edge.

I used a circular saw and ripped a 4×8 sheet of plywood into two pieces for the top of the base and the shelves. Measure the Length and Width of the entire base on both sides.

Walls are not always straight or even, I found that out the hard way thinking both sides were the same. Follow the diagram below and measure your base where all the arrow are and use a jigsaw to cut out the two squares with the X's

Step 5: Add sheetrock to unfinished framing

We measured from the top of the base to the top of the new opening and the width to cut the thin drywall piece.

TIP: You can cut drywall with a box cutter and it will just snap in half. I found that out after I made a huge dust storm outside cutting our drywall with a circular saw. 7

Once you've cut and measured two sides and a top secure new drywall with drywall screws. You will also need a drywall bit (some screw boxes come with a drywall bit inside).

There will be a small gap between the two pieces of drywall, this is normal.

To finish the edges of drywall you will attach a metal corner bead. These usually come in a standard length of 10 FT I believe. We measured from the wooden base to the top of the new opening where the drywall met.

They were extremely easy to cut, we just used a pair of medical shears. But, if you don't have those you can use gardening shears or pliers.

To attach the metal corner bead to the edge we used drywall mud and pressed it into place. When it dries it will act like a glue.

After, we added drywall mud to the white paper edges as additional adhesive. We added another 3 coats and sanded between each coat. Finishing drywall was not my forte so hubs was in charge of all the drywall finishing.

It take about 4 coats of drywall mud, with the last coat being your finishing coat. You will sand between each coat of drywall mud after it has completely dried. Be sure to lightly sand the last layer

Step 6: Attach baseboard

This is the baseboard on the base of our office bookshelf built-in that I used as a guide for our bathroom built-in.

Paint the baseboard before installing and attach with brad nails. Caulk the edge at the top where it meets the base for a clean look. Use the photo above as an example.

Step 7: Paint and touch up drywall

Paint your first coat of primer after you've finished sanding the final coat of drywall mud. Look over your paint job after it has dried, you may see a few imperfections. You can either take your finger or take a small putty knife to add more drywall mud.

When painting the base I used a cabinet paint roller since it was wood and not drywall. I wanted to make sure it was smooth and not chunky with brush marks.

Step 8: Attach brackets for open shelving

Now you're ready to attach the wood brackets where the open shelving will sit on! At this point I was so proud this whole thing had worked and I'd gotten this far.

Use 1×2 on the left, back and right of the walls. Before attaching all of your brackets, use a a stud finder to attach your open shelving to at least one stud on each wall for the best support.

Hold your bracket up and mark where the studs will be and drill pilot holes into your wood brackets.

Use a level and screw your bracket into the walls on all three sides.

I did not attach all the shelf brackets at once. I attached the first bottom bracket, then cut the plywood shelf by measuring all the sides then putting into place.

TIP: Remember, not all walls are straight so be sure to measure all the walls!

Follow the same diagram below to cut all your open shelving pieces.

Once you've completed the first shelf you'll move on to the second and so on. I measured to have the same distance between all the open shelving. I wanted 4 shelves and counted the base as one of the shelves when doing the math for the distance between all of them.

Step 9: Sand your top open shelving pieces

Each shelf fit snug into place and instead of pulling them out and possibly damaging the wall, I just left them in and sanded them in the bathroom.

Step 10: Measure and cut your underlayment plywood and finishing piece

Your underlayment plywood is very thin and will be mounted under the wood shelf bracket shown below. Do not install the under-mount shelf piece yet, just measure and cut.

Measure and cut your 1×3 finishing piece that will cover the gap between your top shelf and under-mount piece. This piece should fit snug between the the door frame.

Step 11: Stain all your open shelving pieces

You will stain the top shelf and under-mount piece as well as the front 1×3 finishing pieces that will hide the gap.

Tape off the edges so you don't get any stain on the freshly painted walls! Wipe down the open shelving with a wet rag to make sure there isn't any excess dust. For all the how to's on staining check out this post for a more in-depth tutorial.

Since I used two different types of plywood I wanted to make sure the stain blended well with both types of wood. We ended up trying a few different types of Varathane stain to pick the best one.

I went with Varathane Golden Oak on all the shelves and ended up blending great with the different types of plywood.

Before installing the rest of the open shelving pieces, I stained the under-mount and finishing pieces separately for easier staining.

Step 12: Install and Assemble Open Shelving

After you're done staining all your open shelving pieces you'll need a brad nailer, clamps, and wood glue to install and assemble the shelves together.

Use wood glue to adhere the top and bottom pieces before using the brad nailer.

Use clamps to hold your under-mount piece in place while you use a brad nailer to nail around the edges into the brackets. Repeat this step for each shelf for the under-mount piece and the top shelf piece.

Your shelves should look like this after you've installed the under-mount piece.

Apply wood glue to the top and bottom of the exposed edges for the finishing piece.

Use clamps to hold the 1×3 in place to let the glue dry. Once the glue has dried use the brad nailer to tack in the finishing 1×3 to the top shelf piece.

I added some more wood glue on the under-mount piece and left the clamps till the glue dried. Your shelves should now look like this with the finishing 1×3 attached.

After

To get the look for all product sources check out our Master Bathroom Reveal!

SHOPPING LIST :

**The shopping list will vary based on the size of the closet you are converting to open shelving built-in. Below you will find the types of items and quantities we used yours will differ.

1 – Scandia 4×8 Sheet Plywood (for base and top shelf piece)

1 – Underlaymount 4×8 Sheet Plywood (for under-mount shelf piece)

2 – 2×4's (for extending the door frame)

1 – 2×6's (for building the base)

1 – 1×3's (the front finishing pieces to the shelves)

2 – 1×2's (for shelf brackets)

5″ baseboard (finishing piece for base)

Sheet of Drywall (to replace door frame and expansion)

1 – Drywall pre-mixed mud tub

1 – Box of Drywall screws

50 – 1 1/2″ wood screws (for brackets)

1- Box of 1″ Brad Nails

1 – Bottle of Wood glue

Minwax Polycrylic (Water Based) – Clear Satin Finish

Varathane Golden Oak Stain

Wiping Cloths

3M Final Finishing Pad

Paint Brush for Water Based Paint

Rust-Oleum Satin Black Spray Paint

TOOLS :

Tape Measure

Pencil

Safety Glasses

Ear Protection

Mask

Drill

Circular Saw (or Miter Saw)

Sander (or Sanding Sponge)

Brad Nailer

CUT LIST :

The cut list will be different for your project as everyones closet space is not the same as ours. If you'd like our cut list specifics just let me know!

SKILL LEVEL :

Intermediate/Advanced

PROJECT COST:

$150-$200

Let me know if you have any questions about anything product wise or even remodeling questions! I'm an open book

For more behind the scenes on all of our DIY and home projects be sure to follow along on instagram. To see all of our inspo and upcoming projects be sure to follow along on pinterest.

Bathroom Linen Closet Dimensions

Source: https://www.houseonlongwoodlane.com/home-renovation/linen-closet-to-open-shelving/